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Via Ferrata Lipella - Tofana di Rozes Summit

The Giovanni Lipella Via Ferrata is one of the great equipped routes in the Dolomites. It ascends the west face of Tofana di Rozes (3,225 m), linking the spectacular Castelletto gallery, long exposed ledges, and an impressive rocky amphitheater. The view from the summit is exceptional and takes in the Tofane, the Lagazuoi, the Cristallo, and all the peaks of the Cortina d'Ampezzo region.

This long, demanding hike is reserved for fit hikers who are comfortable with rugged terrain and via ferrata. It is undoubtedly one of the three most beautiful routes I have ever hiked in the Dolomites.

Remarks

Parking: large free parking lot at the Dibona Hut. Note: a barrier limits the height to 2.45 m on the last 4 kilometers of gravel road from the junction with the SR 48 Cortina–Passo Falzarego.

Equipment: helmet, harness, lanyard with shock absorber, headlamp (essential in the tunnel). Early and late in the season, crampons and an ice axe may be useful for crossing persistent neve.

Ideal period: from mid-July to mid-September, when the snowfields have melted and the risk of ice is reduced. As the wall faces northwest, it remains cool and damp for much of the day.

Start early: allow 8 hours for the full hike. A 6 a.m. start is ideal to avoid queues at the technical sections, leave a comfortable margin in case of unforeseen events, and enjoy the summit panorama before the clouds set in — which often happens in the early afternoon.

Refreshments: the Rifugio Giussani, on the way back, offers a welcome break after the summit efforts. The Rifugio Dibona is also open in season.

Escape route: from the Tre Dita, a trail descends directly to the Rifugio Giussani without tackling the final amphitheater — a useful option in case of fatigue, uncertain weather, or wet rock. See the Tofana di Rozes loop page.

Description and difficulties of the hike

From the Dibona Hut (2,037 m), follow the wide track westward, then trail no. 404, which runs along the imposing south face of Tofana di Rozes. The approach takes about an hour to reach the Castelletto gallery (2,475 m). The start is unassuming; a commemorative plaque set into the rock marks the tunnel entrance—don't miss it!

A short equipped rock step and an iron ladder lead to the tunnel entrance, which was dug by the Alpini during World War I. The tunnel is approximately 500 meters long, with a 100-meter elevation gain. A headlamp is essential as it is pitch black for long stretches and the ground is often damp and slippery. The embrasures and observation posts carved into the wall attest to the site's strategic importance between 1915 and 1917.

From the tunnel exit, a 20-minute walk leads to the start of the via ferrata (2,520 m). The first section alternates between short vertical rock steps, long partially equipped ledges, and diagonal traverses. Handholds are generally good, and the difficulty remains moderate (around C), despite a few exposed sections.

Near the Tre Dita (2,696 m), you will reach a fork: to the left is the escape route (marked "Cantore") toward Rifugio Giussani, and to the right is the continuation toward the summit ("Cima"). The second section is shorter but significantly steeper and crosses the vast rocky amphitheater that gives the via ferrata its signature look. The final sections are the most demanding. Good handholds become scarce, and you sometimes need to pull yourself up on the cable. The north-facing face can remain icy for a long time—early in the season when there is still snow, and late in the season when nighttime temperatures drop below freezing.

The via ferrata ends at 3,030 meters, where it joins the standard route from Rifugio Giussani. From there, a 30- to 40-minute climb up a steep gravel path leads to the summit cross (3,225 m). The 360° panorama is a real reward: Cristallo, Sorapiss, Antelao, Tofane, and Croda da Lago.

The descent to Rifugio Giussani (2,580 m) follows the standard route. The terrain is labyrinthine with loose scree and rocky outcrops to bypass and faint trails. Look carefully for the cairns and red markers, and plan your route ahead of time to avoid dead ends. Snow patches may remain even in summer. From the Giussani Hut, the easier Trail No. 403 leads back to the Dibona Hut in about an hour.

What you'll love

The varied route, linking war tunnels, exposed and panoramic ledges, chimneys, and challenging sections in the final amphitheater.
The stunning views throughout the ascent overlooking Lagazuoi and the Tofane massif.
The 360° view from the summit, offering one of the most spectacular panoramas in the Dolomites.